New IFSC Flash Format – How will it work for the CEC Boulder National Championships?

Nov 10, 2021

How will it work?

  • There will be 18 problems in the Competition Area for the Qualifier Round
    • 6 problems per categories (3 category at the same time)
    • Problems will be identified 1 to 6, and clearly labeled with their respective category
  • Through the Qualification Round, each athlete will need to complete all 6 problems of their gender and category
  • Athletes will have 5 minutes to complete a problem, with as many attempts as necessary
  • Each problem will be judged

What is different from a regular 5 on / 5 off then?

  • Beta videos for each problem will be available on the CEC YouTube Channel by the Technical Meeting on Friday
  • Participants are assigned to one Qualification Heat – one in the morning, one in the afternoon
  • The Gym and Warm Up area will open at 7am, and remain opened until 8:30pm. There is NO Isolation area
  • Youth A (both genders) and Youth B Female will climb in the morning session, while Junior (both genders) and Youth B male will climb in the afternoon session

How will it work the day of?

  • Each Category will be subdivided into two Groups – Group A and Group B
    • Group A will do problems 1, 2, 3 – Rest – 4, 5, 6
    • Group B will do problems 4, 5, 6 – Rest – 1, 2, 3
  • The Judges of Problems #1 and Problems #4 will call athletes by their name and/or bib numbers. The first athlete will then get their 5min ON, before moving to the rest chair for 5 min
  • Participants will have a longer break after their first 3 problems, before moving on to their next 3 problems
  • If you miss you turn on either problem 1 or 4, you will be unable to climb that set of problems. You may still climb and collect a score on the other set of three problems. So, pay attention to the flow!

Check out this video that describes the flow very well!

Can I talk with my coach? Can I share beta with fellow participants?

  • Yes and no. Participants can move around freely in the Competition area, until it is their time to start their first problem.
  • When you are in your 5on, no beta or coaching is allowed.
  • Any other time, you can talk to your coach and fellow competitors, including while on your rest chair.

Why will this format be used at this year’s Youth Boulder National Championships?

  • The IFSC has shared that this format, piloted at the 2021 YWC, will be used more in future IFSC events. CEC would like to give our athletes experience in this format.
  • A classic iso format 5 on / 5 off with the anticipated numbers we will have (300+) would mean some athletes having to be in isolation for more than 10 hours.
  • The flash format keeps the value of a time limit (5 min) unlike the scramble format.
  • CEC considers the 2021-2022 Return to Competition as a Celebration of our sport and our community – we wanted to use a format that would allow for a higher number of participants.

Any other questions?

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While we are half way through our Speed World Cup season, our Bouldering World Cup season came to an end this week as we also started our Lead World Cup season.
As a Nation, Canada finished 13th out of 48 ranked countries in bouldering.
Below are our final world ranking results in Bouldering for the 2022 season (overall, there are 150 ranked women, and 153 ranked men)
Alannah Yip 30th
Victor Baudrand 32nd
Madison Fischer 37th
Guy McNamee 41st
Sean McColl 45th
Babette Roy 61st
Indiana Chapman 65th
Oscar Baudrand 66th
Evangelina Briggs 72nd
Lucas Uchida 87th
Rebecca Frangos 89th
Emi Takeshita 103rd
Paige Boklaschuk 111th
Lia Wieckowski 136th
Zachary Richardson 140th
Ivan Luo and Ethan Hoffman unranked

While we are half way through our Speed World Cup season, our Bouldering World Cup season came to an end this week as we also started our Lead World Cup season.
As a Nation, Canada finished 13th out of 48 ranked countries in bouldering.
Below are our final world ranking results in Bouldering for the 2022 season (overall, there are 150 ranked women, and 153 ranked men)
Alannah Yip 30th
Victor Baudrand 32nd
Madison Fischer 37th
Guy McNamee 41st
Sean McColl 45th
Babette Roy 61st
Indiana Chapman 65th
Oscar Baudrand 66th
Evangelina Briggs 72nd
Lucas Uchida 87th
Rebecca Frangos 89th
Emi Takeshita 103rd
Paige Boklaschuk 111th
Lia Wieckowski 136th
Zachary Richardson 140th
Ivan Luo and Ethan Hoffman unranked
...

Thank you @boulderhallee4 for the amazing session and the new comp boulders! We had a ton of fun and are ready to go for the Innsbruck Boulder World Cup next week 😈

Merci @boulderhallee4 pour la super seance et pour les nouveaux bloc de competitions! Nous avons ou beaucoup de fun et nous sommes prêt pour la prochaine coup du monde à Innsbruck la semaine prochaîne.

Thank you @boulderhallee4 for the amazing session and the new comp boulders! We had a ton of fun and are ready to go for the Innsbruck Boulder World Cup next week 😈

Merci @boulderhallee4 pour la super seance et pour les nouveaux bloc de competitions! Nous avons ou beaucoup de fun et nous sommes prêt pour la prochaine coup du monde à Innsbruck la semaine prochaîne.
...

REMINDER that the registrations for the NACS Boulder Event, at the @jackalopefest in August, are OPEN! Follow our "How to register" Guide to help you navigate the Jackalope Registration system. 

Link in bio / Lien en bio

RAPPEL que les inscriptions pour l'événement NACS Bloc, au Jackalope Festival en août, sont OUVERTES ! Suivez notre guide "Comment s'inscrire" pour vous aider à naviguer dans le système d'inscription du Jackalope.

REMINDER that the registrations for the NACS Boulder Event, at the @jackalopefest in August, are OPEN! Follow our "How to register" Guide to help you navigate the Jackalope Registration system.

Link in bio / Lien en bio

RAPPEL que les inscriptions pour l'événement NACS Bloc, au Jackalope Festival en août, sont OUVERTES ! Suivez notre guide "Comment s'inscrire" pour vous aider à naviguer dans le système d'inscription du Jackalope.
...

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